Nobody in the Serra do Rio is there for the volume of wine, and the proof is that no public agency has measured how much grape the region plants. There is no survey by Emater-Rio, by Pesagro, by the state Secretariat of Agriculture or by IBGE (the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics).
A state that legislates on the origin of a product without first sizing the production is not protecting a crop. It is naming a territory. And a territory gets named when what one intends to sell is not what comes out of the land, it is the fact of being on it.
The winery gives a name, a seal and a reason to visit. The revenue comes from what happens around it: lodging, dining, events, and the lot that is worth more because the destination exists.